Australia:
The final frontier.
These are the voyages of the caravan, MERV.
Its 11 month mission to explore beautiful new lands.
To seek out new playgrounds and lonely shoes.
To boldly go where no Blonde Nomad has gone before..
We passed through Bundaberg on our way to Hervey Bay and
wanted to stop off to look at the Bundaberg Rum distillery.As it turned out, we arrived just as a tour
was starting so we grabbed tickets and joined the group.
Out the front of the distillery.
It was really awesome!The distillery is modern looking and is surrounded by an enormously
badass looking electric fence.Right
next door is a large factory with smokestacks that billow steam and
vapour.We weren’t sure if the manky
smokestacks were part of the distillery until the guide told us that the
factory is a sugar refinery and their by product, molasses is a key component
of Bundaberg Rum.The distillery buys
the molasses and it is pumped directly into huge holding tanks from next
door.
Smoke stacks at the factory next door.
We saw the bottling and packaging
area, the molasses tanks, the fermentation tanks, stills and maturation
vats.You’re not allowed to take any
electronic equipment in there so we don’t have photos but if you ever go to Bundaberg,
do the tour.Lou doesn’t even like rum
and she found it fascinating.Also, as
part of your ticket you get two shots at the bar at the end of the tour and can taste just
about any of the rum variations they make.Lou kindly donated her shots to Jenny and took ownership of the car keys
for the rest of the day.
Shot number 4 for Jenny. Sloshed by 3pm...
After (or before if you’re early enough) the tour you can
walk through the new visitor centre / museum which has stacks of history and
Bundaberg Rum memorabilia. They have the original Bundy Bear costume and a TV
that plays one of their popular ads showing a group of singing men building a
ship which promptly sinks as soon as they put it in the ocean.Ben
loved it and watched it at least 20 times.The only way we could get him out of there was by videoing the TV and
promising him that he could watch it again in the car!
Mesmerised by the Bundy Ad.
Ben couldn't watch this TV commercial enough
We left Bundaberg and headed to Hervey Bay where we would
base ourselves in preparation for a few days on Fraser Island.
The town of Seventeen Seventy is named for the year that Lt James Cook
landed there (he went on to become Captain James Cook).Several people had recommended we go there so
we drove through the small town of Agnes Waters and arrived at the beach front
caravan park at 1770.
The park was jam packed and the sites are small so we were
lucky that guys from the two sites in front of ours saw our big van and moved
their cars for us.Nevertheless, it was
still a very narrow, tricky spot to back into.Enter Jenny and her magical reversing powers.I think I’ve mentioned how you always have an
audience when you are parking your van and this time was no different.She drove forward and then backed the van in
perfectly, first go.As Lou was at the
rear of the van watching for how far back we could go the couple next door who
were sitting at their table watching remarked “That was really well done. What
an amazing job!”We had at least two
other people drop by over the next 24 hours to congratulate her as well.
Sunset at 1770 beach.
Ben was very excited to see that the tent next door was home
to a little girl playing on an iPad.He
immediately made friends and they went for a ride on their scooters.Her name is Maya and she is also an only
child and her parents were glad to have a playmate for her too.
We had dinner at the caravan park bistro and Ben ordered nuggets and
chips.Not only did they bring out his
meal 5 mins after the adult's meals, they served him the biggest bowl of chips we have
ever seen.It was ridiculous and we
ended up filling an enormous takeaway container and giving it to our neighbours
(Maya's parents) so the food didn’t go to waste.
We got up early the next day and went for a walk along the
beach.In addition to stinger warning
signs, they have stonefish warnings too, which was nice for a bit of variety
but not nice because stonefish can cause you excruciating pain and sometimes death.The tide was out anyway and the ground underneath was muddy and rocky so we stayed up on the sand. It really is beautiful to look out over the water there and we followed the walking trail through
the bush to a monument to Lt James Cook.
The James Cook monument.
That afternoon we drove
around to Agnes Waters and found a much better beach.It had surf and was patrolled so we had
a swim and Ben did some great boogie boarding.There is a caravan park right next to the beach and it looked more
spacious and nicer than where we were camped.We made a mental note to stay there next time we come here.
Ben boogie boarding at Agnes Waters.
Later we drove up to the headland to see the views from
above 1770 and out across the ocean.
View from the 1770 headlands.
Ben with the anchor of the ship "Countess Russell' which was wrecked here in 1873.
Maya’s parents, Ruth and Mick told us about a great walk
that Maya had loved so we got up early the next day to do it before we packed
up to leave.It is called the ‘Paperbark
Walk’ and is through a forest of paperbark trees.Part of the trail involves hopping across
round stumps in the ground and it has a real fairyland feel.It’s only 400m around a circuit and once we
had done it one way Ben insisted we do it in reverse too.It was really lovely.
We headed to a place near Rockhampton called Kinka
Beach.On the way we left Daniel a geo
cache under a tree on the back roads of a small town.He would be passing that way in a few days
and we hoped he would be able to find Ben’s gift of a drawing, a lollipop and a
bag of popcorn.We sent Ross the GPS
coordinates and set them the challenge of locating it.
A present for Daniel.
We left it hidden under this tree.
We had to drive
through Rockhampton to get to Kinka Beach and stopped off at the big shopping
centre to get a few things.While we
were there Jenny discovered that there was a rodeo on in Rockhampton that
night!We were very excited because we
have wanted to see a rodeo since we started the trip but have always arrived in
town a week after they’ve been on.We
decided to head to Kinka Beach, set up camp and then drive the 40mins back to
‘Rocky’ that evening.It was a bit of
extra driving but meant that we wouldn’t have to move the van two nights in a
row.
The ‘Top Gun Rodeo’ was awesome.It was held at the Great Western Hotel, which
has a rodeo ring out the back.There
were cowboys and cowgirls everywhere – big hats, dusty boots, checked shirts
and diamante studded belts aplenty!We
saw horse agility trials, steer riding, bull riding, bucking horses and little
kid cowboys on small bucking bulls.The
thing that struck us most was how tough those competitors are.
Agility time trials.
One of the big bulls.
They get thrown hard and just get up and
scramble off.A few of them got kicked
or stood on by the bulls, some got their hands caught in their leather straps
and looked like they’d had their elbows or shoulders dislocated and others got
mushed against the fence.They just get
up and limp off or stagger away cradling an arm and not one other competitor or
official goes over to see if they are ok.I saw one guy squatting out the back, hunched over in pain as he held an
injured arm and about a dozen people all walked around him not even sparing him
a look.We didn’t actually think there
were medics in attendance until one guy got bucked off and kicked in the
chest.He didn’t get up and then some St
John’s volunteers appeared with a stretcher and carted him off to
hospital.We have a new saying now –
cowboy tough.When Ben hurts himself and
we want him to be brave we remind him of the courageous cowboys.
It was a late night and we had a lazy morning the next
day.Kinka Beach is nice and quiet and
we went for a walk along the beach. Ben made friends with some people with dogs
and then played with their 7yo son.
Kinka Beach.
We found a whole dead stingray stuck in the mud, complete with barb still in the tail.
The caravan park had a pet emu.
That
afternoon we drove through Rosslyn Bay and the Marina before heading to nearby
Yeppoon where there was a skate park.
We had a message from Ross, Barb and Daniel to say that they
had moved more quickly than they anticipated and were nearly at Yeppoon.We laughed, accused them of stalking us and
told them to meet us at the skate park.We don’t know why we bother to say goodbye to each other anymore.
Daniel and Ben scooting.
They came back to Kinka Beach with us and stayed the night
there.They had found the geo cache we
left them and Ross showed us an app that lists all the different geo caches that
people have left all over the country.The idea is to find it, write your name on the log and then put it back
for others to find.
We left Ross, Barb and Daniel (again!) and headed towards
the town of 1770.They were staying in
Yeppoon for a couple of days and headed back that way.
We stopped at a geo cache site along the highway and found
the hidden tube in the top of a roadside pole.
Someone had cut the top off the pole and hidden a tube inside.
It was really fun and when we stopped for afternoon tea at a rest area
later on, we found another in the frame of a nearby billboard.
Another find in the billboard frame.
That rest stop was right next to someone’s
front yard and we enjoyed looking at their incredible metal sculptures before
we set off again.
At the start of the trip, we had tossed around the idea of
chartering a yacht to sail around the Whitsundays.One of Jenny’s friends had done it and said
it was awesome.It was pretty expensive
though and neither of us have sailed a boat that big (strangely, they’ll still
rent you one though.We just didn’t feel
that confident.)
We’d spoken to Ross and Barb about it and they were keen
too.Luckily Ross has sailed a fair bit
(smaller sail boats but enough to be confident) so we decided to charter a
yacht together and spend 4 days sailing ourselves around the amazing Whitsunday
Islands. We highly recommend it - it was absolutely awesome!
Our boat was a 41 foot Bavaria yacht called Y-Knot.It has three cabins, 2 toilet/showers, 2
sails and an enormously oversized steering wheel which we all joked about.
On board our home for the next four days.
We moved into the yacht on a Sunday afternoon, packed all
our gear away and stayed overnight in the marina.The boys shared the cabin up the front of the
boat while the other two cabins were at the back.
The boys in their snug sleeping quarters.
We had a 4 hour briefing the following
morning.One of the guys from the
charter company came on board and showed us around and how some of the things
worked.He was a bit casual about it but
we felt confident with Ross’ experience and Jenny’s very thorough study of the
manual they had given us.We sailed out
of the marina with him on board and practiced putting up and taking down the
sails, dropping and lifting the anchor and attaching / detaching from a mooring
buoy. When he deemed us capable he hopped in his dinghy and sped away.If was a bit of a surreal moment when he
left.We all looked at each other and
said ‘right then, off we go in this huge yacht..’.
Ross was an awesome skipper and he and Jenny navigated us
around without any issues.There are
buoys, sand bars, reefs and rocks to avoid and we didn’t have any
problems.We all took turns at steering
and each of the adults was responsible for a particular job on board. (Ross –
skipper.Jenny – navigation.Barb – anchor and mooring. Lou – looking
after the dinghy that was tethered to the boat.)
Helmsman Ben!
We sailed to Nara Inlet that first afternoon and saw
dolphins along the way.You have to be
anchored by 4pm each day and we found a sheltered spot with plenty of room
around us.The sunset was spectacular
and the boys had a swim off the back of the yacht.
Gorgeous sunset.
Inflatable fruit ninjas.
We had bought them some inflatables (Daniel
had a big round lime and Ben had a giant strawberry which he named Logan) and
they had a great time jumping from the yacht onto the blowup fruit.
Jenny swam with them and then went out in the
dinghy with Ross to snorkel on the reef.Lou and Barb did some fishing and didn’t see many fish but did see loads
of squid.Barb caught one but the others
eluded her squid jig.
At this point any fish is a good fish to catch. This guy went back of course.
Every morning you must check in with the base station on the
radio and tell them where you are going that day.They broadcast the weather and based on
conditions will approve your intended route or suggest a better location if
they think that winds or tides will be unsuitable where you want to go. Our route was approved so we set off towards Tongue
Bay.We set the sails that day and had
lots of fun sailing rather than just motoring along.We saw a big mackerel jump up about 3m out of
the water next to the yacht.
Us under sail - shot from Ross' drone.
We moored in Tongue Bay amongst a load of tourist boats and
did two trips in the dinghy to ferry us all to shore.
Dinghy ride into shore.
We left the dinghy and walked up a well known
trail that takes you to a lookout with spectacular views of Whitehaven Beach
which was on the next island, across a channel.It is absolutely breathtaking.The deep blue of the water and pristine white sand is
unforgettable.
Amazing views!
Something caught our attention...
We walked down to the
beach of the island we were on and could see small sharks swimming in the
shallows.Jenny had a quick swim and
Ross flew his drone to get some great aerial footage.
Down on the beach.
Another drone shot from Ross.
Ross' drone footage at Hill Inlet
We went back to the yacht, intending to sail over to
Whitehaven Beach but the wind had picked up and it was getting really choppy
the further we went in that direction.We also had a technical issue when Ross suddenly lost power to the GPS
and all the components at the helm.We
radioed base for assistance and they ran through all the switches we needed to
check.When we switched one of them on
the problem was resolved.We have no
idea how it suddenly got switched off and think that Jenny must have
accidentally lent on it when she had been in the area a short time before.With the rougher seas and the time we lost
fixing the controls we realised that we wouldn’t have time to go to Whitehaven
and still get to our overnight stop by 4pm. We were bummed not to go there and headed
to Mocona Inlet where we would anchor for the night.
Heading to Macona inlet (link to Ross' video)
Drone footage on the way to Macona inlet from Whitehaven Bay
On the way we saw some green turtles.They were huge and slow and it was great to
see them out in themiddle of the ocean.
We had better luck fishing that night, catching a few small
ones but were teased for hours by a school of huge fish that circled under the
light at the rear of the yacht.We tried
all kinds of bait and lures and even some very unorthodox fishing methods but
weren’t able to catch one.
This was the super moon night.
The following morning the wind had really picked up and
there white caps on the waves all around us.The yacht bounced up and down and when we were at the helm we got
splashed as the prow bounced up and down over the waves.Poor Jenny had picked up a virus and was down
below in bed all day coughing her lungs out.It can’t have been pleasant in those rough seas.
The seas got rougher.
We put the sails up again for a while and later when the
wind had quietened a little, Ross put the drone up to film us sailing.It was hard to launch from moving platform
and Barb had to hold on to it and let go just at the right time.‘Catching’ it when it was coming back to the
yacht was a feat in itself too.
Unorthodox drone launching.
We sailed to Manta Ray Bay and did some great snorkelling
before heading back through Hook Passage to check out the area around Hayman
Island.We saw a huge school of tuna and
threw a line in but they managed to avoid us yet again.
After a snorkel, Ben collected pistol shaped coral.
The guy who had done our briefing recommended we stay at
Stonehaven Bay near Hayman so we hooked onto a mooring buoy for our last
night.The wind was still pretty strong
and were confused as to why he had said that place had good shelter.We tried to fish and caught one reasonable tuskfish but the boat kept swinging
around and tangling our lines in the mooring rope and the last thing we wanted
was to tangle them on the rudder or keel.
A better sized fish..
It was an awful night, the boat bumping against the buoy all night and
even riding right over the top of it a few times.We swung around it this way and that and we
had to tie down the sun shelter over the helm so it didn’t get damaged in the
wind.No-one got much sleep with the
wind gusting strongly and the buoy bumping the hull all night.
The following morning
we headed back to the marina in strong winds.The boys loved getting splashed by the waves and when we bounced up and
down on the waves it was like being on a trampoline.We were amazed at how different it was to the
first day’s sailing when the sea had been as smooth as glass and we had given
the boys (and Lou) a ride being pulled along in the dinghy.
Lou's turn at the helm.
Jenny in charge.
When we arrived back at the marina one of the staff came out
to meet us in a dinghy and took the helm so steer us to the refuelling dock and
then into the tight berth at the marina.He did an inspection and then we unpacked everything, heading back to
the Big 4.Poor Jenny still felt sick
and went straight to bed.
We said farewell (again!) to Ross, Barb and Daniel the
following day.They traveled with us to
Mackay where we stopped at a park that had ducks and turtles in a pond.The boys had loads of fun feeding them and
having a final play together before we continued south and R,B & D found a
spot to stop for the night.
We drove into Airlie Beach, parked the
van at the ferry terminal and caught the boat over to Daydream Island for the
day.Ross, Barb and Daniel would meet us
at the caravan park that evening.
Welcome to Daydream Island!
Daydream Island is beautiful and it would be a nice (but
expensive) place to stay for a few days.The hotel is modern but not over the top posh and there is plenty to do.
Our main goal was to snorkel at Lovers Cove, a spot highly
recommended by the Big Mango info centre lady in Bowen.We were bummed when we arrived there to find
it closed for a wedding until 2.30pm that afternoon so we walked the length of
the island (it is only about a 1km end to end) to check out the lagoons that
are throughout the resort.The walking trail
cuts through a rainforest and up over a rise and so has spectacular views of
the beautiful blue waters around the island.
Walking through the rainforest.
Beautiful views.
The lagoons in the resort are filled with Manta Rays, Shovel
Nosed Sharks and loads of different reef fish.One ray was very friendly and came over to wave to us with his
wings.It was like being at the
aquarium.
"Hi Benny!" says the ray.
We had lunch at the bakery and
swam in the resort pool before taking their golf buggy shuttle back to Lover’s
Cove.Unfortunately, the afternoon winds
had picked up and when we got to the cove it was far too rough to swim.
We went to another beach called Mermaid Bay
though and snorkeled there.It was
calmer and there were still lots of fish and interesting coral to see.
Mermaid Bay.
After another pool swim we caught the ferry
back to Airlie Beach.
We came to Airlie Beach a few years ago when Ben was about 2
and stayed at the Big 4 Caravan Park.It
was awesome and had a pool with 2 water slides that Ben loved.We wanted to revisit it, especially since the pool was now heated so we booked there on this visit as well.Ross, Barb and Daniel were camped next to us
and we joked about how many times we had said farewell to them, only to meet up
again soon after.
Ben has an egg allergy and we are always very careful to
check the ingredients of any food we buy.We are particularly careful with crumbed foods, especially after Ben had
a reaction to the chicken kiev we had bought in Broome and eaten at Lombadina,
up on the Dampier Peninsula.Even though
the butcher we bought it from had promised there was no egg in it, Ben had an allergic reaction to
it, which was very scary in the middle of nowhere.
The butcher in Airlie Beach had some Chicken Kiev and Lou
bought some after again grilling the butcher about egg content.He swore black and blue that there was no egg.Lou told him what happened last time and he
was adamant that it was egg free.We ate
it that night and were playing cards with Ross and Barb in the van when we heard Ben
whimpering in his sleep about an hour after he went to bed.We rushed straight in and found his face
swollen and he was really hard to rouse, just like last time.We gave him antihistamine straight away but
were concerned as the reaction was stronger than last time and had happened
sooner.We called an ambulance just to
be sure and they took him to Proserpine Hospital.The doctor examined him and by then the
antihistamine had worked so he said that no more treatment was needed.He kept Ben in hospital overnight though to
be sure and Lou stayed in there with him.All the medical staff were awesome, especially the nurse, Bobbie.She gave Ben a big teddy bear and an activity
pack and was just fantastic.
Poor Benny feeling lousy.
Much better the next morning. With 'Tim' his new teddy bear.
Ready to go home now...
The next day Lou went back to the butcher, ready to rip
someone’s head off but all the butchers on duty assured her that there was no
egg in the kiev.They were actually
really helpful and brought out all of the batter and breadcrumb mixes to show
the ingredients.No egg.
So now we have a huge mystery.It was chicken, butter and garlic, all of
which he eats regularly.It was also
breadcrumbs and the batter mix.Nothing
else.There is no egg in the breadcrumb
or batter mix but he must be allergic to something in there, so we are off to the allergist
again as soon as we get home, armed with the ingredients lists to see which additive or preservative or odd chicken kiev combo of things is
causing this reaction. It’s totally
weird.Maybe the first one was egg free
after all and it’s something to do with the bulk ingredients that butchers
would use.Needless to say, no more
crumbed items for Ben unless we’ve made it ourselves from our own breadcrumbs!
We took it easy for a couple of days while Ben
recovered.He ended up with a ripper of
a cough and blocked nose but was in good spirits after a bit of downtime.